It might seem like dereliction of duty for a fashion writer, but sometimes the best judge is not your eyes, but your ears, as was the case in Paris on Sunday, on hearing the near deafening cheers for Alber Elbaz when he took his bow after showing the spring 2009 collection for Lanvin...
The applause-meter can be a telling indicator, which was true in the all-black show tent on the Quai Branly, after a shantung and satin chic collection by Elbaz, a designer who exists apart from the overall trends in fashion.
Lanvin shows are hard to appreciate if you are not there, since Elbaz's forte is packing passion into fashion. His style evokes a certain sense of grandeur that is never old or staid, but always haute glamme.
“I think too many people are talking about the financial downturn. What women want and what I tried to put into this collection are clothes which create emotion,” the designer told FWD backstage, amid a swirl of camera crews and fans.
Starting with mono-color looks, Elbaz twisted and rouched his fabrics into remarkable, dimpled forms that mimicked nature even as they improved it. Lanvin might be one of the most expensive of labels to buy, but it's clothes are forgiving. One could see that you did not have to be a runway model to look great in these clothes, so understating of the female figure is the cut.
One movement Alber did tap into was the new super short skirts being seeing in Paris, with Lanvin's designs appearing above some remarkable crystal shard high heels.
Most young designer should pinch, beg or bribe an invite to a Lanvin show, as these collections are master classes in draping and architectural fashion construction.
As ever, the collection was hyper elegantly staged, from the hand-written name tags - with just guest's first names on the Louis XVI style chairs - to the laser beam with the house logo and the brilliant disco dance soundtrack. The music built to the lush finale where more and more crystals and beads were added to the dimpled skirts, tops and faux leopard print cocktails, a glittering display that led to approving smiles and ripples of clapping throughout the packed audience.
That was just before a loud burst of applause as Elbaz, know for his long strolls down the catwalk, took the most modest of bows; bow-tied, three-piece-suited, grinning.
photos courtesy of fashion wire daily
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