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miu miu: mosaic mood, marvelous mode
Fashion Wire Daily - Godfrey Deeny
Oct 6, 2008
The very term intellectual fashion conjures up images of dark, lumpy and staid clothes, which is the exact opposite to what we got at the tour de force Miu Miu collection for spring 2009 Sunday in Paris. This was intellectual fashion of the highest order, yet the result was an exhilarating display of style, graphic punch and aesthetic panache...

But, even if Miu Miu was built on the past - using a series images culled from ancient Greek and Roman mosaics - it was far and away the most modern and innovative.

Like a genuine intellectual, designer Miuccia Prada thinks through the idea first before undertaking its elegant and extensive execution. Take just one notion; the way Miuccia built columns into most looks, cutting her tops, low-waist skirts and sheaths with plisse vertical lines, mimicking fluted classical columns. Even the models' hair came with indented flutes, repeating the column motif.

Beginning in mono-color, the designer gradually added the Pompey mosaics, heads of gods and devils or geometric patterns, all that tad ruined, before they all moved down to create a series of great new shoes in the same hues and prints – easily the best footwear seen anywhere this season.

The execution was so perfect – from the devore, holed and pitted fabrics to the craftily built in imperfections – that our favorite look didn't even have any mosaics; just Russian model Natasha Poly in an ever so wrecked beige burlap cocktail with matching bags and pumps. Perfectly judged, decidedly new.

"I wanted to dig into the past to understand ourselves today better," was Miuccia's explanation backstage, as she nibbled on rose champagne and foie gras.

Adding to the arty novelty, a team from architect Rem Koolhaas' studio created large cine noir Pop Art blow-ups of the many actresses Miu Miu has featured in its campaigns, from Kim Basinger and Kirsten Dunst to Drew Barrymore and Selma Blair. These hung above the audience in approving silence on the goddesses who traipsed down the catwalk.

 

mui-mui-spring-2009-paris

photos courtesy of fashion wire daily

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