Staged before a delightful black and white trompe l'oeil backdrop of a gilded couture house, this collection of summery elegance and pristine chic earned a huge burst of applause as editors and fans exchanged the knowing looks of aficionados who recognize they have just seen a master at work.

“I just adooooored it,” shivered Jennifer Lopez to FWD as she posed for photos with Oscar in the tiny backstage of neo classical church where the collection was unveiled.

Made in colors like truffle, oyster and washed beige, the collection practically wafted down the whitewashed catwalk, on an astutely chosen casting of supes like Natasha Poly, Behati Prinsloo and Jacquetta Wheeler, who clearly loved wearing these patrician yet never stiff clothes.

Don't get us wrong this was no time warp show, but a modernist updating of Oscar's oeuvre. From the sleek, graphic opening swimsuits or staggered fold blouses, to the exquisitely simple shantung dresses and impeccable washed cotton suits, this collection got it all right.

Rarely have we seen such a finely made collection in Manhattan, from delicately finished maco bead embroidered dresses to harlequin pattern cocktails, the finish was superb.

What's also great about Oscar is that he reaches a far broader audience than most people realize – from classic department stores to avant-garde retailers.

“Great, old style Republican clothes. We loved it,” smiled Terron Schaefer, SVP of Saks; while Armand Hadida, the Paris fashion forward boutique owner known for selling accessories such as Carol Christian Poell see-through horse-skin boots and now an Oscar client, raved: “fabulous fashion. Classy, but new. Grand but never heavy!”

The show was a tad long with 63 looks, and we could have edited out the odd brocade coat, but overall this was a smash hit, by an uptown gent who knows how to reinvent himself with serene effortless gestures.

We are not sure whether Sarah Palin will wear this collection if she reaches the White House this fall, but she should, even if the Governor of Alaska might well wear Victoria Secret's underneath.

So let's raise a glass of champagne to Oscar, who may be twice the age of most designers showing in New York yet unquestionably has twice the talent and four times the class.

photos courtesy of Fashion Wire Daily

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