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We witnessed an unlikely meeting of influences in Emma Cook’s collection shown Monday afternoon in London, everything from Cow Gal frills and posh punk attitude to toy soldierettes and twisted groupies, but the net result was a punchy series of clothes that had gall and audacity...
Staged in the industrial basement of the University of Westminster, this fall 2008 women’s ready-to-wear collection was a mixed media affair where lace, latex ruffles, clinging tie-dye stretch cotton and tweed fought for real estate of taut cocktail dresses. Made in hues of washed out gray, olive drab, mat black and dented aluminum, the clothes had a military survivor mood, though the sort achieved on maneuvers that strayed no farther a field than Hoxton Square or Socialistia in the West Village.
Cook cuts rather crazily - mega short lengths, hula-hoop stiff hems, Urban Cowboy ruffles and schoolmarm collars, but the net result was a natty collection of great clubbing gear. Not for the curvaceous or those much past 30 maybe, but spicy and very definitely alluring.
One also had to admire the accessories – great plastic soled, see through booties worn with trouble making black tights of lace and femme fatale stars.
Entitled “Lonesome Susie,” the collection was a great tonic on a slow moving day of shows in London, and a triumph for Cook, who creates a capsule collection for Topshop, the United Kingdom’s savviest retailer.
The soundtrack was spot on, country and western versions of rock classics like The Ramones' “I Wanna’ Be Sedated” and “Stairway to Heaven” by Led Zeppelin.
Forget about hiding out in these dresses. They are the sort of looks men make a beeline for, fashion that turns heads, that starts pulses racing, that leads to romance and tears. Like it or not, this is the new aphrodisiacal style?
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