Missoni has always been an outstanding source of creative and imaginative knitwear, but the very richness of the multi-colored materials often overpowered the label’s runway shows. Nothing could be further from the truth in this fall 2008 collection, were the understated color palette, savvy styling and smart mix of knits with leather, mohair and, above all, fur, gave the collection a new dimension.

Moreover, designer Angela Missoni’s experimentation with shape and volume, made the whole mood much more contemporary in the central via Turati show space where the runway show was staged.

An early black double face cashmere pullover tunic worn by the ever pouting Lara Stone summed up the new mood. Cut with volume, worn with matching skirt and fantastically naughty brown booties, the outfit would have been ideal for a remake of Cukor’s 1939 classic, directed say by Ang Lee, with Kate Bosworth and Kate Beckinsale in lead roles.

Cukor’s caper, let’s recall, was the greatest feminine tour de force in cinema, with 130 female speaking roles, and not one man seen in the movie.

Even better, the mini selection of furs – with the standout, an iris mink stole with darkened trim – added just the right soupcon of glamour.

A word of praise is also merited for Matteo Ceccarini, credited as sound designer in the program notes, whose industrial minimalist soundtrack added another dimension to this smartly judged staging.

Same for the Missoni collection, whose selection of dark swing coats with graphic knit linings, outrageously cool chasuble dresses in naive prints and colors, curvy and pleated skirts and splendid asymmetric knit cashmere dresses in colors like pomegranate, turmeric and petrol, made this one of the house’s strongest collections in years. In a word, you could dress the whole cast of the film remake in this collection and all of them would have had the wit and panache of the original players.

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