By opulent we refer to mixed-media clothes where sleek sequined torsos, hammered matte cashmere, uber dry boiled wool, sleek cotton poplin and shaggy mohair managed to meet in a rich and patrician manner, yet never jar.
This fall 2008 collection staged on 39th Street in the heart of the Garment District was a true and proper triumph for Klein’s designer Francisco Costa, a quiet spoken Brazilian who has slowly but surely stamped his vision into Calvin’s DNA.
Somewhat ironically, though the best parts of the collection were for day, where the hues were largely black as night, in a palette that ranged from midnight blue and gunmetal to Atlantic storm gray and blackened silver.
But the heart of this show was the tailoring, where Dr. Costa cut with a micro surgeon’s scalpel, angling his incisions to create spruce mini tail coats, molded felt cabans and plush futurist pea coats. His sense of novel proportion was at its best with a series of austere cocktail dresses, where large panels of boiled wool reminded one of overlapping roof slates.
Largely devoid of decoration and accessories – few belts and no bags – the collection did contain some really great shoes. You had to just love the glorious wedges and platforms composed of arty Josef Beuys felt or faux snakeskin suede, occasionally finished with shearling cuffs. They anchored and added gusto to the clothes.
The collection did not quite soar at night, where too many multi-plisse columns were elegant yet not really inspiring. Yet this was a minor hiccup in an assured collection that took a clear stylistic stance and defended it with bravura. Backed up by a wonderful military tattoo industrial sound track by DJ Frederic Sanchez and featuring the most elegant of the new crop of models – Alyona, Malin and Suvi, to name a few – this was Costa’s best show to date. Cool clothes for cool gals to meet cool guys. That good.
Don’t miss any of the action inside the tents. Click here to visit americanexpress.com/style to see live video of over 70 shows at New York Fashion Week.
More fashion week videos and coverage from Saks Fifth Avenue’s Michael Fink here.
Article Courtesy of Fashion Wire Daily
related articles:
| Feb 7, 2008: |
kaleidoscope eyes at anna sui . read full entry |
| Feb 7, 2008: |
proenza schouler: convolutedly cool. read full entry |
| Feb 7, 2008: |
michael kors: walks like a lady. read full entry |
| Feb 7, 2008: |
pretty plaids and textures at nanette lepore. read full entry |
| Feb 6, 2008: |
vivienne tam: eastern glitz, western glam . read full entry |
| Feb 6, 2008: |
great looks at cynthia steffe for fall 08. read full entry |
| Feb 6, 2008: |
monique lhuillier: cyber cabaret. read full entry |
| Feb 6, 2008: |
badgley mischka: park avenue days and hollywood nights . read full entry |
| Feb 6, 2008: |
is show-texting the latest behavior from the fashion flock?. read full entry |
| Feb 5, 2008: |
70’s reign supreme at tibi. read full entry |
| Feb 5, 2008: |
Moody and dramatic at Ports 1961 . read full entry |
| Feb 5, 2008: |
Uptown Action At Oscar de la Renta. read full entry |
| Feb 4, 2008: |
carolina herrera: haute barnyard . read full entry |
| Feb 4, 2008: |
diane von furstenberg: bourne for bad gals. read full entry |
| Feb 4, 2008: |
cool, calm and spectacular backstage before the tracy reese show. read full entry |
| Feb 4, 2008: |
tracy reese: dark and stormy . read full entry |
| Feb 4, 2008: |
it’s always romantic at charles nolan. read full entry |
| Feb 4, 2008: |
shine and sport mix at lela rose. read full entry |
| Feb 3, 2008: |
sass and bide's celebration of life. read full entry |
| Feb 3, 2008: |
pretty prints at james coviello. read full entry |
| Feb 2, 2008: |
Lacoste: Megeve Mode. read full entry |
| Feb 2, 2008: |
Celebrity crazy at BCBG. read full entry |
| Feb 1, 2008: |
so opulent at the elie tahari fall 08 preview. read full entry |
