With practically every second model wearing Federal era tri-corn hat or face veils, skirts cut half way down the calf and blouses knotted with little ties it had a straight laced sensibility. Yet it was all juxtaposed with Grease style headbands and willful volume that gave the fashion a fresh, refined twist.
"Calm, calm, glamour and beautiful women,” responded Jacobs to FWD when asked what he was thinking of when designing this collection, before repeating almost word for word this comment to two other reporters.
The silhouette was intriguingly curvy, even lumpy at times, but rapid fire tailoring tricks – blown up jodhpurs cut off at knee or futurist wide and dimpled shoulders – injected witty visual spice. Jacobs also toughened up looks with crystal clusters on cuffs and exploding star brooches.
The show was staged in the downtown armory, whose huge volumes allow Jacobs to build baseball style bleachers to sit the huge numbers that beg to get into his shows. This season, his front row was installed in cushy club banquettes before tables groaning with bottles of Moet Chandon.
In a sense, Jacobs gets something of a bum rap from many Europeans who complain that too often he references major designers showing in Paris. No one could level that score this season,
Although none other than Swiss art star Tony Oursler provided a backdrop video, we did not understand why the models were lined up on a giant scaffolding and standing there until the end of the show. Although the idea of a live two-tune, feedback enhanced set by, always cool, Sonic Youth was spot on.
Overplaying his hand a tad, Jacobs ran around the huge stage before the show cajoling editors and celebrities to take their seats. That makes a first for any designer in our experience, in any major fashion capital. After his show last season started two hours late, his tardiness ignited a huge polemic, Jacobs was out to prove a point, maybe a little too much so.
Photos Courtesy of Fashion Wire Daily
Don’t miss any of the action inside the tents. Click here to visit americanexpress.com/style to see live video of over 70 shows at New York Fashion Week.
More fashion week videos and coverage from Saks Fifth Avenue’s Michael Fink here.
Article Courtesy of Fashion Wire Daily
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