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Shades of violet, Victorian gothic and ‘60s psychedelia - it was business as usual at Anna Sui, an institution in American fashion who has been showing her collection on the runway in New York since 1991. For fall 2007, Sui's inspiration came from interior design. Furniture, upholstery, trims and objects informed both her fabric selection and her prints. But with the addition of some sportier cold weather pieces, like the smocked puffy parka she opened the show with, Sui made sure that once her girls left their cozy interiors, they'd be well-protected on the exterior...
Imagine if a Sui girl went for a weekend ski trip - hard to picture in the first place, to be sure, as you'd be more likely to find her DJing or at the flea market on the weekend - but if she were to go away, her wardrobe would consist of easy pieces like the centerpiece of Sui's collection this season, the printed smock dress. Thrown over a turtleneck, paired with lurex tights and knee socks and a heavy pendant necklace, and worn with a hooded nylon anorak - the hood, in various fabrications has been a key trend this season - and she's ready to recite Rimbaud and channel Aubrey Beardsley's Salome while she's slaloming.
Aside from prints and embroidery with the literal depiction of furniture - an intargia sknit sweater of a settee, gold clock and armoire embroidered on the hem of a wool dress, Sui also pulled a Scarlett O'Hara on us, swapping a tapestry or paisley jacquard upholstery fabric for Scarlett's curtains for a trippy psychedelic look.
In past seasons, Sui has never shied away from a mad mix of texture, pattern, color and embellishment, sometimes to the collection's detriment (not everyone was born a stylist) but this season felt more restrained, with more manageable pieces to work with to create instant style - a striped velvet jacket here, a safety pin print dress there. And so in a certain way, what Donna Karan is to the working woman, Anna Sui is to the rock and roll girl, always working on variations of the same theme that can seamlessly work their way into her customer's wardrobe season after season.
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