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Diane von Furstenberg: Mittel European Movida fashionwiredaily - Godfrey Deeny
Feb 5, 2007
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Entitled La Movida, von Furstenberg's fall 2007 collection was a swaggering tour through Iberian culture that inspired prolonged applause in Bryant Park. Her show, the first major collection of the New York season, drew an impressive array of media, majesty and heavy money. Everyone from Charlie Rose and Anderson Cooper to Susan Sarandon and Candace Bushnell, along with the inevitable blue blood brat pack – led by Charlotte Casiraghi – and old Euro money – Lapo Elkan showed up without wearing his famous, all carbon, 1,000 Euros a pair sunglasses. But if the Vatican took Lapo to task for his shades - a local Florentine monsignore excoriated anyone who would consider spending $1,300 on decorating their eyes when others were sleeping on the streets – then they would have been pretty at ease with this collection. Though not exactly demure, it was ladylike, poised and entirely fitting for a stroll across St Peter's Square. What worked best were silk faille wool dresses, ruffled, bowed and slightly twisted that seemed in tune with the current Japanese arty, dress up zeitgeist, yet plausible enough for Diane's followers. Also impressive were cashmere cardigans and sweaters in dramatic, geometric prints that echoed bullfighting posters, or the Gaudiesque allusions in cocktail dresses. Oddly enough the two single best looks were not at all Spanish: a splendid mega polka dot mesh dress worn by a new Asian model that would flatter scores of women and a perfectly cut, black knit suit with clever panels that was hip, practical and polished all in one move. It was such a well judged outfit one expected several variations on the theme, but the passage turned out to be unique. "It's monastic black and Movida modern," insisted Diane of her collection. Despite three decades in fashion, von Furstenberg still loves her catwalk moment. She took a long, leisurely, hip swiveling tour of the catwalk,her hair flicked back, pausing to embrace a pal or wink at an editor, beaming smiles at the photographers. In a word, despite giving away 30 years to the models, America's most glamorous female designer still stole the show.
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